Designed by her and skilfully fashioned by the most experienced craftspeople in the industry, a bespoke Lebrusan Studio heirloom tells a unique story of stunning design, exquisite craftsmanship and beautiful ethics. With over fifteen years of experience in jewellery design and a long list of accolades under her belt, Arabel Lebrusan is a multifaceted artist who specialises in creating timeless pieces of jewellery that will be cherished by generations to come.
Her pieces encapsulate traditional artisanship, beautiful ethics and a distinctive mix of cultural, historical and aesthetic inspirations. In short, 18ct gold is 18 parts pure gold; whilst 9ct gold is only 9 parts pure.
Carat weight is in fact the only factor to influence the appearance of gold. Whilst provenance makes no difference Fairtrade, Fairmined, recycled or industry standard - 18ct gold looks like 18ct gold , the lower the gold content the more diluted the metal in hue.
You'll notice that 9ct gold is lighter, less yellow and less lustrous than its 18ct counterpart. All in all, 9ct gold is tough enough to survive a lifetime of wear - but 18ct gold is better suited to heirloom pieces chosen with future generations in mind. Whilst 9ct gold is technically 'harder' than 18ct gold, scoring higher on the Mohs Scale of Hardness, this doesn't mean it's more resilient in the long-term.
When compared over a longer period of time, 18ct gold has got what it takes to hold its own. If you're thinking of an intricate design like one of our engraved bands, there's no question about it: 18ct gold is the only option for you. Discover beautiful bespoke designs and get inspiration for your next timeless piece of jewellery. Can you comment on what type of white metal works best for a tension set ring specifically thinking of an east-west tension setting for an emerald cut stone.
For a tension setting, I would recommend going as hard as you can with the metal choice, so probably platinum. However if you like the idea of using non-plated white gold, you could put a hidden support underneath the stone that joins the two shoulders and provides a cup for the stone to sit in, making the setting much stronger I would do this regardless of metal choice as tension settings are never particularly secure.
As for 19ct gold — this will obviously increase the gold content even further than 18ct so therefore potentially reduce the hardness further. I totally agree with you. I have just had an un-plated, beautiful custom made, hand engraved wedding ring made for me and due to the high quality metal my jeweller uses, the colour is stunning, almost like a creamy silver, which looks perfect with my fair skin! My question is, if I leave it on for washing hands, sanitising and showering, will it tarnish and end up a yellowy colour, or will it always have the look it has now?
Gold will not tarnish like silver does. It will just loose its high shine and gain a dull sheen instead. It is just perfect. Different engravings all around it. The man is a genius! I have attached a couple of pics of my ring from the front and the back. Non-rhodium plating looks better on UK non-nickel material certainly on 18ct white gold than 9ct IMO.
This is because, almost counterintuitively, the 18ct alloys appear whiter, or certainly less yellow than the 9ct! Why counterintuitive. I believe this is because the mix of alloys in the mix of 18ct white gold have a more bleaching effect on the gold. I recently bought a ring in unplated 14k white gold and I have never seen white gold unplated. It truly is better in my opinion too.
I attached a pic of my wedding ring and my Masonic ring side by side to show the difference. I loved the article! This is a topic that is near to my heart… Cheers!
Where are your contact details though? Hi William, I am not sure if the Italian alloy mix is different to the ones used in the UK, but it is usually a mix of silver and palladium, not just one or the other. I hope this helps! Best wishes, Jodie. I wish I had known this before I got my ring.
I have to have it plated twice a year to maintain the color. I would actually prefer to have it unplated. Hi Lea, it is such a common misconception that white gold has to be rhodium plated. It can be polished off, which is something we can help you with should you wish.
I also prefer the unplayed white gold. My wedding set made by friends 17 years ago are unplated 18ct. I took them into a different jeweler I live in diff state now for sizing and fusing the 3 bands and the woman at the counter had the funniest look on her face when I said I did not want them to be plated.
I love the character my rings develop over time. And the color is warm. I love au naturel! Hi Jodie, I wish I knew about this before I thought they all had to be plated my ring looks terrible now and needs to be replated. Before reading this post, I had no idea what white gold was.
I completely agree with you, and it should not be plated in rhodium. Natural materials age more gracefully. Thank you, I feel this has been an eye-opener for all of us. We have found the wedding rings we want locally here; the standard version is 18ct hammered white gold, rhodium-plated, with 18ct yellow gold either side, total width 5. The supplier is finding out whether the ring can be made in palladium instead of white gold.
Taking account of durability etc. Sadly we probably have neither the time nor the budget for completely custom made Thanks a million in advance for your generosity of advice! Ultimately, all precious metals are by their very nature soft in order for a goldsmith to be able to work with the metal, so even Palladium will end up with an aged patina with wear. Thank you for your comment and I wish you all the best for your upcoming wedding. Every piece of jewellery tells a story.
What I would like to encourage is Rhodium free gold! Image credit: Stephen Einhorn. Image credit: Fox Fine Jewellery. Image credit: Timothy Roe. Image credit: Earth Art Gems. Image credit: Krikawa. In general, the more pure gold there is in a ring, the warmer the yellow hue.
White gold alloys without palladium and platinum are generally warmer in colour than those with palladium and platinum. While this is a general rule, different alloys from different manufacturers may show slight colour differences depending on how they are made. If you are after a lower price point, 9ct gold can also be a fine choice. Email [email protected] or book a free custom jewellery consult and we can chat about which option may be right for you.
What is the difference between 9ct gold and 18ct gold? What is the difference between 9ct and 18ct gold? Does 9ct gold tarnish? Is it ok to wear 9ct gold? A more detailed comparison between 9ct gold and 18ct gold. The verdict — 9ct gold or 18ct gold? Have questions? Want more advice about choosing an awesome piece of jewellery?
How to find a ring size without ruining the big surprise. How to design a custom ring when you have no idea where to start.
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