For example, if you own a lot of long dresses, you might need a higher rod than if you were storing mostly t-shirts and dress shirts. Another factor that will shift this height is if you choose to use a double-rod system in your closet.
In these cases, the upper rod is usually installed at a height of 80 inches while the lower rod is positioned at 40 inches. The ideal height for a closet shelf leaves you enough room to store whatever you may need while being low enough that you can also easily reach those items. It would be fairly inconvenient to install a shelf at a height that requires you to find a step stool or sturdy chair every time you needed a book or your favorite accessory.
This puts the recommended shelf height between 84 inches to 87 inches off of the floor. For smaller closets with a lower ceiling a shelf can be installed directly above the rod. This rod is generally placed 68 inches above the floor, so the shelf would need to be positioned above that with enough room to accommodate your clothing hangers and provide the ability to easily remove them.
As for shelf depth, this recommendation can change depending on what you want to store. Items like spare t-shirts only need about a foot of space while shoe closets may need closer to 14 inches of depth to fit securely.
While this will give you plenty of space, it will also make it difficult to reach anything pushed towards the back wall without help. Most closet height standards for doors are about 80 inches. This is just what I was looking for.
I have an irregular space for a small walk-in and was trying to figure out what standard measurements I should use for various types of storage. You saved me hours of computations. Are they attached at all, or are they only supported by resting on the ground? What keeps this system from rocking side-to-side? Can someone point out what is keeping this vertical supports against the back wall?
Is it just that the entire structure, when complete, supports itself? I do not have a stud in the middle that I can nail to. Thank you!
Thank you in advance. One question about the length of the shelving. If so, is there any other way of providing the needed support? There are lots of ways to support shelves: corbels, unobtrusive brackets that are painted the wall color, etc.
I find the studs are never quite where I want them to be. Any thoughts here? Second, with regards to the vertical dividers, are they only fixed to the sides of the rear cleats, or is some kind of adhesive used as well? See attached picture. How is everyone connecting the vertical supports to the rear wall of the closet? I found this website very helpful when finishing my basement.
I was able to finish 2 bedroom closets, 2 hall closets and a small linen closet. I received praise from the final inspector, the carpet guys and everyone that has an eye for this sort of thing. Thank you for the tips. Everything turned out really nice and I as able to best use the space. I cut dados in the vertical support to receive the shelf. I thought it would add strength and make it look a little more professional. I built all my closets with a skill saw and a router.
I sure wish I had a table saw when doing this. The floating shelving is what I want to do. How did you attach to the wall? Make sure you fasten that ledger to every single stud with two good screws—not drywall screws! Then you can cut the dividers at a rake on the bottom, starting a taper cut about 16 in.
Changing my measurements to allow for the heights you suggested. Thanks again. This is all amazingly helpful. I thought you were talking about shelf-and-pole only. Do you have any great recommendations like these for designing and installing shelving in a Master Closet? I am think of a shelving unit either 4 or 5 drawers high with shelving on top. Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Dorald, Sorry for the long delay in responding. Though in a large master bedroom closet, we install drawer bases on some walls—just as you described, with shelf-and-pole above.
The layout of the closet is always dependent on the size of the closet and the type of shelving the owner requires. My significant other and I are customizing the master bedroom closet in a house that has been gutted.
Neither of us had a clue regarding measurements and your article has been a godsend. We started today and it is going great! Thank you for the information. Thanks for the great write-up! I used to this when I did construction in high school and your layout tips helped get everything rolling. Installed 3 closets in a basement with a just shorter then 8ft ceiling.
Had to go 12 in from the top then work down instead of up. Two were small 44in closets. I ended up with 16 in wide opening shelves secured to one wall and double rods for the other 28ish inches. If I use a Kreg for attaching the cleats to the verticals, would that be a strong enough hold to the verticals? Could I then just attach to studs thru the cleats? Remember, the vertical dividers are trapped in place by the cleats—there should be a cleat on each side of a vertical divider, and the cleats should run all the way to the wall, so the entire assembly is trapped between the walls…it can not move.
You can screw through the back of the divider into the previous cleat, too, then place the next cleat to cover that screw hole. Sorry, I should have been more specific. So I would like the shelving to be installed only into the walls not resting on floor at all. Best way to accomplish this? It seems this was never answered, but the answer is above in a different reply.
Basically you need to screw a ledger board into the wall above the floor. The vertical dividers will rest on this instead of the floor. Then starting on one end of the closet, you screw your cleats into the back wall, then put a vertical divider in place and then screw sideways through the back of the divider into the existing cleats. Continue across the wall, screwing cleats to the back wall, then the next divider into the cleats.
The dividers rest on the ledger board at the bottom. Do you use a miter joint at any of the other inside corners? Yes, the cleats are butted together in all corners, at at the dividers, too. There are no miter joints in the cleats or the shelving. I just wanted to say thank you for this article.
I recently reconfigured some space in our house into a walk in closet based on your designs and this page was a life saver.
The bookcase is the original closet door frame, I knocked out the wall between the two spaces. So much great info from everybody! Thank you for sharing. I was wondering if you hada cut-list for this project as shown with measurements above?
Thanks for sharing this tutorial. I was wondering what program you use to comp the closet? It seems like a great way to comp projects for clients. Are you talking about the drawing program? Gary, I am very green with building anything but am trying this closet in my daughters room. What is the difference between the regular cleats and the Chamfer cleats that you have noted at the bottom? Then sand them. Hi Gary, Thanks for your last response!
I have one more question. I have a 24 inch deep closet. The inside of the closet is 90 inches wide but the opening to the closet is 59 inches. Avoid Flush a common rule among finish carpenters. Very informative, accurate, and practical. Very well done! Recommend highly. Knowledge from experience is always great. Everything here is spot on. Hi Gary. So what is the largest shelving section width you would recommend?
Gary, Sorry for not being clear. Hopefully this explains it better. Advanced Search. Menu Account. Cube Organizers and Stackable Storage. Shoe Storage and Entryway Benches. Deep Organizers 16 in. Deep Organizers. Laundry Organizers Laundry Hampers. Deep Towers 16 in. Deep Towers. Need help planning your space? Let our team design for you! Design Service.
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